Eat - Pray - Petra

(l to r): Phil - Bill - Bruce

My talk this past week at the Albuquerque Museum of Art & History got me to thinking about last year's work and this forthcoming's potential adventures: For 3-months last year, from early March through early May and late Sept. 30 through the end of October, I was privileged to be part of a three person Park Ranger mentoring team from the US to work with the Park Rangers at Petra Archaeological Park (PAP) in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Jordan is about the size of the State of Indiana: it borders Egypt, Iraq, Israel (labeled as Palestine on most of their maps), Saudi Arabia, and Syria. While “Arab Spring” had sprung around us we were working with Rangers at this World Heritage Site. My colleagues included Bill Wade, who grew up at Mesa Verde National Park where his father was the longtime Chief Ranger, and Bruce McKeeman. Between the three of us we had over a century of national park experience: all of us had worked at both cultural & natural resource areas including some large locations (Yosemite for them, Death Valley & Denali for me).

Our Pre-Trip Objectives and Tasks included:

To work in the field with the rangers and their supervisors to expose them to the way U.S. rangers tackle the issues in their park, exchange experiences, and assist them in improving their performance in the areas of: animal health & treatment, child labor, unauthorized vending, cooperation with the tourist police, and awareness of the protection of park resources.

Bill & Hamza

We were fortunate to have a colleague (Fred) already working with the equine stock. In fact Fred had been to PAP a couple of times and was actively working on-site with their horse owners association and the Brooks Animal Hospital (UK based international program). Fred gave us great pre-trip tips on what to expect food wise: microwave popcorn would be a treat in the 4-bedroom apartment in late afternoons, pinto beans worthwhile packing, and spam to go with eggs. One dietary surprise I wasn’t expecting as the salads: 90% cucumbers & tomatoes. Guess what I usually pick out of my salads and give to Meme (my traveling compadre and spouse of 35+ years)? Another surprise that 1^st morning, was the 4:18AM “First call to prayer” of the day. We’d gotten in from the airport ca. midnight and I was having trouble sleeping, due to an Arabic coffee I had at a road house about 10. About 3AM I dozed-off to be awakened by amplified and dueling calls to prayer: at least a couple of the half dozen mosques sounded just outside the bedroom window, only to find out later that they were several blocks away.

Wadi Musa in 2011

PAP headquarters is in Wadi Mousa (Moses), Jordan. With an exploding construction program the population is now ca. 20,000 with the area being about 30,000. When Moses came through the area with the Israelites, tapped his staff on a rock and behold “there was water” (creating the still flowing Moses Spring), they were but a long continuum of travelers in the area: During the Neolithic 8,000 – 7,000 BCE: hunter gatherers had made transition to village nearby at Baida; followed by the Edomites, a Semitic tribe “ruled” by King David at one point – being semi-nomadic they were primarily southeast of Dead Sea used the many caves found there; trade routes bringing Frankincense, Myrrh, Gold and Spices were developed from Africa, India, & Yemen; in the 6th Century BCE  the Nabataeans, a Semitic group from the Arabian Peninsula area populated the area, followed by a Hellenistic Period (Alexander) in the 4^th Century BCE where they tried to conquer, but Petra remained independent. Nabataeans consolidate power 300-200 BCE. Many Tombs with facades were started, as Petra (then known as Raqmu: Aramaic for “colorful”) became “the ‘in place’ to be buried for Nabataeans.” By the 1^st Century BCE the population of the area was about what is today +/- 30,000. In 106 CE it finally succumbed economically to rule by Rome, and in 131 was renamed by the Emperor Hadrian, during his visit there, as “Petra Hadriana” (modest fellow). Petra survived devastating 4^th Century CE earthquakes, but was never quite-the-same in its importance thereafter: Byzantine (324-625 C.E.), Umayyad (661) thru Ottoman (1917). It was re-discovered by Europe in the early 19^th Century by a Swiss traveler that had converted to Islam.

Visitation in the early 1980’s was minimal (8-24 in a day most times). It was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and by 2005 the count was up to 800 per day. Then PAP got listed as one of the “new” Ancient Wonders of the World and in 3-years it quadrupled with the associated impacts that brought us there. A few words on these pages can not convey the visual power and majesty of the place we call Petra; books have been written and photo-journals published. Even I started this blog: www.travelRANGER87508.blogspot.com (many photos posted and on my Facebook pages too). My best advice is to visit for 3-days (or more): if you’ve been before, you should return; if you haven’t been, you should by all means go.



unauthorized vendor - at Urn tomb



Getting back to why we were there (paid by US Agency for International Development: USAID): Our primary Ranger skills & professionalization focus was to be Emergency Medical Services, Search & Rescue (SAR), and visitor services. We found ourselves involved thoroughly with program assessments that included analysis papers regarding: Professionalizing the Petra Park Ranger, Al Khubtha trail signs, Barrier needed at the Theater, Child vendors, General operations, High Place of Sacrifice trail signs, Lower Basin (Qasr al Bint) signs, Park Ranger uniforms, Petra Park website, Remote area water closets, Vendors (Concessions), Barricades, Emergency equipment caches, Donkey management, Ranger patrols, Water flow issues at trail to High Place of Sacrifice, Sign to Wadi Farasa, Requested comments on Park map and brochure.

from above Al-Kha

Some places we got to work, patrol & ponder that you should be sure and see include:

As-Siq (the 1Km slot canyon that approaches The Treasury), Al-Khazneh (The Treasury), the Nabataean Theatre (built in Roman style), Urn Tomb, Royal/Corinthian Tombs, Tomb of Sextius Florentinus: Roman Governor, the Blue Chapel: Byzantine period, Byzantine Christian mosaics, The Great Temple, Qasr al-Bint, Post Office Tomb, The Fortress, The High Place of Sacrifice, The Lion Fountain/Triclinium, Roman Soldiers Tomb, The Triclinium, Columbarium, Garden Temple Complex, Ad-Deir: The Monastery, Aaron’s/Jaroun’s (Moses’brother) Tomb, high spot above The Treasury, Little Petra, etc., Etc., ETC. There are over 3,000 sites/features (they call them monuments) within the 101 square miles we call PAP. The park elevation varies, but much is 3000- - 3300’ The Nabataeans were master builders of water capture and delivery systems with some channels using gravity feeds and clay piped ditches for miles.

Wadi Rum

In addition, in latter March we were asked to plan & conduct a one-day national seminar on “The Best Practices in Management of Protected Areas” to be held in Amman on 27 April (the day Meme arrived in Jordan, and our wedding anniversary). This type of seminar in the US would be planned and scheduled 6-12 months ahead; it put us into over-drive (and on some of their “broken” roads). We visited most of the present nature reserves (Wadi Rum, Dana, Dibeen, Ajloun, Azraq, Wadi Mujib, Red Sea/Aqaba) and their heritage sites (Amman/Philadelphia Citadel & Theatre, Jerash, John-the-Baptist/Baptism, Karak Crusader Castle, Madaba, Mt. Nebo, etc.). Even though it was slapped together on short notice it was considered very successful with over 100 in attendance from various environmental departments and organizations. A follow-up is being planned (Inshallah… God willing).

We learned a great deal from our sojourns there in 2011, and hope to be of assistance again in 2012: this next time with more in-depth SAR and GIS expertise. This too, of course, is subject to the Inshallah factor… Phil Young (Feb. 2012)

What’s Next?

Towards the end of my last post I wrote a little about present-day political realities here. I’ve had time to reflect on the party primary issue and default back to wanting a third party (The Moderates) that’ll blow the (D) and (R) out-of-the-water in most cases. Of course we do have the issue of money (“political contributions”) that usually tries to influence, especially following electoral success. Many are upset about the US Supreme Court decision that corporations have the rights of individuals, thinking it will make for an unlevel playing field. Even some Republicans for Environmental Protection colleagues mentioned that Corps. give more- so, I went looking… according to opensecrets.org (see below) of the top donors 20 from 1989-2012 you’ll find that 5 are fairly split their in donations between the two major parties, 14 are listed as strongly or solidly (D) donors and 1 is (R). 12 are Unions. The sheer amount of money the past couple of decades has gone overwhelmingly to (D).

http://www.opensecrets.org/orgs/list.php?order=A but hat is changing... http://www.opensecrets.org/overview/blio.php

Of course SuperPACs are going to have an impact on the political landscape. Here are some of their major donors at the state level (of course the #1 group donor is FreedomWorks for America that is pledged in defeat President Obama’s re-election bid).

http://www.followthemoney.org/press/ReportView.phtml?r=479

“Money makes the world go around…” but in “public service” (aka: government) it usually makes for a stench while you’re at-the-trough and it usually has short-term gains (as Julius Caesar discovered)…

Democracy then... now (how?)

 

Krewe of Zulu '82

Happy Mardi Gras. I know from experience that the streets of “Nawlins” are jammed with revelers at this hour: frolickin’ on Fat Tuesday bay-b (or darlin’). I can’t help but think of our place at Bayou St. John near City Park and the Museum. It is great to see that Rocky & Carlo's Restaurant & Bar is back providing St. Bernard with traditional cuisine. The last time I saw it was post-Katrina and it had been devastated (as was I looking upon it). But, today is Mardi Gras so reflections on that later.

Theatre & Al-bint

             Tonight I’ll be talking to the Albuquerque Archaeological Society at the Museum of Art & History, presenting: “Eat – Pray - Petra: Protecting a World Heritage Site.” With yesterday having been President’s Day, a Federal Holiday that the State of New Mexico doesn’t celebrate, the Presidential primary election season in full-tilt-boogie, and tomorrow (Ash Wednesday) starting lent it seems an appropriate occasion to reflect on government past and present. In earlier Nabataean times Petra was known as Raqmu (the colorful); it was “The Place” for your earthly physical remains to spend eternity, thus a destination for many family pilgrimages to inter their family members. The 4^th century BCE (Before Christian/Common Era) started the Hellenistic period to the region. The Greeks of course are famous for experiments in government: most notably Democracy. I also recall that they found it unsustainable (even with banishing every year 10 powerful people for a decade), got rid of it and moved-on; they eventually found the “benevolent dictator” to be most effective. Of course, the “key is in the ‘b’” and finding one that remains benevolent is the challenge isn’t it?

             When the Roman Empire cast its net over the Dead & Red Sea area they didn’t march their legions into Raqmu, figuring “if it didn’t work for Alexander why waste our energy. They used economics and re-routed caravans. Eventually they were invited in. Tradition has it that the Roman Emperor Hadrian renamed Raqmu to Petra, adding Hadriana as the 2^nd name.

             In that respect government in the State of New Mexico follows-suit: the number of buildings and highways named for the living political power brokers is astounding (some while they’re still in office). What many would call corruption, we call “how we do business” (like the ancients, and the old country). “Pay to Play” is not really a new concept.  Some will tell you that we don’t celebrate President’s Day here because on odd numbered years the legislature is in session and we are all too busy (while they’re hectically passing feel good memorials, without any weight of law). Therefore we put off the holiday to the Friday after Thanksgiving. Makes sense, but others say it is because we are an ol’ colony that prefers kings & emperors. Quien sabe? But, we all know that traditions die hard.

             Along that same vein is the present electoral system in the USA. Much of the modern world knows we have primarily a 2-party system. Sure, there are more parties, but they have limited influence, often relegated to the role of spoiler. The Democratic and Republican parties hold the reigns of power, while keeping their boot on the throat of democracy, and not letting go. Here is how: 40% of the registered electorate is independents. In most states they can NOT vote in primary elections (a few enlightened states allow “open” primaries). Where is the “democracy” in disenfranchising nearly 40% of the voters in the basic process of primary elections? The result has been ever increasing polarization as (D) and (R) candidates move increasingly towards litmus tests away from moderation. We sure could use some “b” about now… and as Thomas Paine wrote: “Common Sense.” Dr. Rudy Becking (Humboldt State Univ.) used to say: “they should call it rare sense.” ALWAYS, enjoy the day amigos/amigas…

             http://www.abqarchaeology.org/news.shtml

"Been a long time since we rock-n-rolled…"

Al Webster GPS in hand

I’d been thinking of several different subjects I wanted to mention and talk about the past couple of weeks, but I’ve been very busy preparing for the Heritage Resource Investigations (HRI) course I coordinated/taught earlier this week (see post: 12 Jan). This weekend is the State SiteWatch Steward Conference where I was to address what has been happening in the Santa Fe-Galisteo Basin Chapter + safety issues. Unfortunately, I’m not going to be able to be at the Conference (71 are registered from around New Mexico), as I’ll be pinch-hitting as collegiate tennis chair umpire at UNM.

Therefore, it’s a good thing that I recently had the HRI experience to reflect upon for the very important aspects of safety when Rangering or stewarding a resource:

1. Be Prepared – take the following

a.     SiteWatch Steward ID Card, HPD Volunteer Steward Agreement, land manager volunteer agreement (for each jurisdiction to be visited on the trip)

2. Folder with copy of Lab of Anthropology Site Record, SITE MAP- clearly showing Public Land Survey System and/or UTM locations, historical records: survey reports, excavation reports, site photos, etc.
3. Impact Reporting forms for natural damage and vandalism (human caused).
4. Agency approved list of emergency contacts for incidents and situations, and instructions for non-emergency incident reporting.

5. Access/exit route instructions including vehicle requirements and any other special considerations specific to the site(s). Contact information for landowners at and near the site.

OTHER FIELD ITEMS

6. USGS topographic map(s), Compass (and/or GPS), Paper and pad for notes and/or small tape recorder, First aid kit, drinking water, appropriate clothing, and a full tank of gasoline in your vehicle (spare tire, jack, lug-wrench; someplaces a shovel), Camera, film/disc, photo log form(s), binoculars, Brochures for public distribution (from land manager or SiteWatch), Fully charged cell phone, CB, two-way radio, or other contact instrument In many areas cell phones do not work – do not rely on this form of communication.

2.   Have a partner:

NM SiteWatch suggests that volunteers work in teams of two (2) or more. When you are out with a group, stay with at least one other in your party. We had a Search incident last July where an experienced SiteWatch volunteer was with a group site tour that ended with a State Police helicopter ride when they went solo: Don’t go-it-alone.

3. Be properly clothed, provisioned, and equipped for the trip.
4. Review the weather-related forecasts of the trip before departing. If there is more than a slight possibility of trouble or restricted access due to weather, the trip should be rescheduled.
5. Systematic plan for APPROACHING & assessing the Safety to enter (and later survey) the site.
6. Stewards shall ALWAYS “sign-out”, in person or by phone, with some person immediately before departure:  Give the location of the site/s to be visited, the name of person/s participating, the route/s to be taken, and the expected time of return. The actual person to whom the Steward is signing in/out should be reliable and preferably constant (i.e. use the same person every time if possible). Remember to sign back in upon your return!
7. Accidents (with or without injury), or vehicle breakdown: the person/s involved should stay on the established route until help arrives. As accidents are by definition unforeseeable, the Steward will not deviate from the established route – emergency personnel must know where to look for you.

8. Stewards must not confront or openly observe persons involved in suspicious activity. Any actions that might provoke confrontation or pursuit shall be avoided. Each steward should have a credible reason for being at/near the site in the event that interaction with suspected criminals is unavoidable. Suspicious activity or vandalism should be reported to the authorities as soon as safely possible and recorded on appropriate forms.
9. Rodents = hantavirus, holes-n-snakes: health & safety issues to be aware of. This reporting party had the earth surface give-way to mid-calf at Burnt Corn Pueblo recently.

Hope you continue to go forth, do good, “and be careful out there…”

http://sitestewardfoundation.org/index.php

The computer (st)age

Like many of us, I’ve become pretty reliant on my computer for so many aspects of simplifying my life. Things like research, transferring funds/paying bills, and staying-in-touch/communications. Did I say “simplifying?” Well, it can be when things are working as planned. Sometimes things go amiss of course, and can lead to sudden onset of sharp pain between the eyes. We’ve probably all “been there.”

My most recent experience started when I should have listened to my friend Tony. Tony Bonanno is a retired Regional Chief Ranger/Senior Special Agent for the National Park Service that stays abreast of technology. His present business as a photographer keeps him on the cutting edge of the digital age (see links below). Late last spring he advised me to shop on-line or Best Buy for a new laptop as our local store was probably not competitive at this time. Boy, I wish I had listened to Tony. Instead I went into SuperComputer (Santa Fe) and bought a new MSI  (no complaints) for me, and an Asus (geesh) for Justin. We were told the Asus was Windows 7, only to find out later that was loaded over Vistas (with ALL its problems). The HDMI on it worked for 31-days, then stopped operating (by then Justin was living in Chicago). At the same time I’d taken in my ol’ tried-n-true Acer to SuperComputer because to wireless connection and audio for video wouldn’t work. They charged $200, but I found that even though wireless now worked the audio for video still didn’t. When I took it back they fixed the audio for video, but returned it with the wireless no longer working. I decided that my shadow would never darken their doorway again when it was fixed simply “by a friend” of Meme.

When Justin came home for the holidays we decided we wanted to look into why the HDMI connection stopped working. So we took it to the Geek Squad at Best Buy. They thought it might need a new “mother board,” so we paid the diagnostic fee and they shipped it away. Sometime later they called and said it needed “a new hard drive” for ca. $600. We had it shipped back. It operates e-mail, PowerPoint, etc. (the things I do most of the time) fine: didn’t sound like in need of a new hard drive to me.

I next took it to Office Max for their “Free Check.” As I’d thought, the hard drive was fine, but there was malware onboard, and the antivirus program that we’d procured with the computer (AVG) had an empty folder. So, we paid to remove the malware and purchase a different antivirus program. The program connected to the HDMI is NVIDIA GeForce 9800M GS. The Office Max analysis said it is running “Optimal.” Only the HDMI connection still doesn’t work and the computer’s troubleshooting program indicates there is a defect with the above mentioned program (less than 1-week after the Office Max finding of “Optimal”).

After $$$ here & $$$ there, the bottom line is that I’m not sure which way to turn. It seems that today’s IT markets are filled with “snake oil salesmen” and cons: Beware! If you have a good trustworthy computer repair person treat them right & hold-on-tight… The best computer service I’ve seen was in Wadi Mousa, Jordan (Thanks Rasha)…

http://www.bonannophoto.com/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx

http://www.bonannophoto.com/Bio/tabid/57/Default.aspx