“I feel like I’m fixing to die…” (and other “Country Joe & the Fish” rags)

Royal Tombs

I received a quick and unexpected reminder of being a semi-high profile public servant in a foreign land this afternoon. Though here strictly in an advisory capacity (vice operational), I couldn’t help but think of the many travelers that came here and ended up calling Petra home for their final worldly act. An older visitor from Poland died at her hotel the other night; I hope she got to see Petra earlier in the day

Haroon's Tomb

Early funerary traditions practiced by locals during their transition from Neolithic hunter-gather to seasonal occupants of what became villages were burials beneath the floors of their circular pit-houses (so familiar in various locales). Later they evolved to rectangular above-ground rooms and blocks (ditto). One of the more famous burials here is Haroon’s, or Aaron’s tomb. As the older brother of Moses (“The Prophet Brothers”) he is often credited with being his younger brother’s mouthpiece (unlike Charlton Heston  it has been rumored that the younger was slow-of-speech: I bet after the “Burning Bush Incident” anyone would need prolonged critical incident stress counseling). Both brother’s final resting place is in Jordan, though not available for archaeological research.

Nabataen burial cave

Later the Nabataens became famous for their elaborate burial practices. It appears that the Romans adopted the local custom as several Roman tombs dot the landscape (vice ashes being sent back to Rome).  There are about 1,000 Nabataen tombs in PAP, and some believe that in addition to it being on a major trade caravan route, Petra was a religious destination for many Nabataen. In fact, it may have been a highly prestigious burial city. Of course, there is evidence of local treatment of human remains.

funerary prep area

Being along a vital trade route from Africa, myrrh was a commodity available for treatment of the deceased. The body would be wrapped, treated and placed in exposed pits excavated from rock benches in high places. Here the bodies would be dehydrated & mummified at an accelerated rate (it would also help mitigate certain odors from public areas). Later the human remains would be placed in burial vaults/chambers often having highly stylized facades that we see in the monuments around PAP today.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aaron

http://nabataea.net/burial.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myrrh

http://ancienthistory.about.com/od/deathafterlife/a/RomanBurial.htm

Roman Soldier tomb

Add’l Note: I asked an archaeologist on the staff here for information on coprolite research that has been done here. He said that it indicates many interesting factors: eating fish from Red Sea, etc. He’ll be getting me a copy sometime (Inshallah).

“Cool, clear… WATER & Sanitation (what to do with the “other stuff”)…

from ARPA def of Archeological Resource

Walking up the 600+ stair-steps from the Street of Facades to the High Place of Sacrifice I saw that Mohammed had recently (since Spring) been there and inscribed his name on the wall for all to see. As the “kid from the kennel” I also found myself noting the donkey-droppings on the steps, and as we passed the French nun and her two companions up towards the ceremonial features, I wondered about the history of animal and human waste here. The archaeologist in me wondered if human coprolites had been discovered. I’ll need to check that out. As our former New Mexico State Archaeologist Dr. Glenna Dean (who did her dissertation research on cave coprolites in west Texas [yes, “she know her s…  stuff”]) will tell you: much good information about diet and environmental conditions can be gleaned from their study.

Modern Water Closet (oriental style)

Due to trade routes and influences from the cardinal directions (in this case east) I’m thinking that animal and human wastes were probably recycled onto fields and plots- even some for non-food production (flowers). We know that human materials were used further east in Asia (urine can be diluted and re-used in a non Aron Ralston manner to further your agricultural water supply: I saw this a couple of days ago at Mahmoud’s home in Um Sayhoun where grey-water and other waste fluids are used to irrigate edible (like chili- green & red) and decorative plants. Certainly see the western/Euro-type and far eastern Asian type toilets here (again I ask: east of what? Seems like a European Colonial perspective). So, it is reasonable that fertilizing practices made its way over the trails millennia ago (one direction, or the other, or both [seems feasible]).  Plus, there were the Minoans (Crete) that had "waste water" system toilets pre-classic Petra, and they were relatively in-the-neighborhood.

Looking down from High Place

I picture pits and pallets of composting materials that are hauled to the fields terraced in front of/below buildings that lined the floodplains of the wadis. We met, and talked with Justin Bedard (archaeologist with URS Corp. from the Washington DC area) at the High Place; we discussed cultural landscapes, districts, sites & monuments, but didn’t get to the important “poop” of sanitation and organic agricultural practices (being in awe of funerary facades). Until next time… “and be careful out there…”



Siq-road-cane-kitty



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coprolite

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_water_supply_and_sanitation

Siqs, Wadis, water & other precious gifts



Tomb at Garden Comlex



Garden Complex

Most of you that know me realize that even though a double-fire sign (Leo) I think about water a lot (“keep it out of my single-malt whisky please, except maybe as ice melt sometimes…”). It may have to do with living most my life in the arid parts of the US, being a wildland firefighter (“put the wet stuff on the red stuff”), or having an “esposa” that works figuratively “in water” for the New Mexico State Engineer (new one TBA).



clay pipe in Siq aqueduct/acequia



Yesterday, as I was strolling down the sig towards the Treasury I saw two pre-adolescent boys that were with an English speaking tour group. They weren’t paying any attention to the tour, and it appears their parents were paying no attention to them: play were playing, climbing and running on the 2,000+ year old aqueduct water features built by the Nabateans, that still has original in-situ cultural material in the form of clay pipe in sections. Now I know that 2,000 years old is almost modern here for water works. After all, Wadi Mousa was founded because of the springs & waters. From the time that Moses allegedly struck his staff against the rock the waters have been forthcoming and people have been harnessing its life sustaining nature. Through thousands of years water capture and conservation technology evolved in this vicinity, with an apex 2,000 years ago. The Nabataens worshipped water, and seeing the youngsters potentially destroying such important (and relatively easy to see) heritage resources, while their parents and tour guide said “nada” (nothing), made Ranger Phil want to come out of an advisory role and go-operational. I remained in keeping with our charter here, as a Ranger I reported it up the supervisory chain-of-command, thinking back home we would have had immediate talk with the kids (they acted as same), parents & guide and used it as an educational experience for the entire group.

terraced fields

On the practical side of Nabataen water capture, transportation, impoundment & use I’ve been asked: “where were their fields (crops)?” The simple answer to that is just about everywhere they could. Evidence indicates that terraced fields would have been found throughout the now dusty-n-dry city. In its’ pre-parched condition little plots would have dotted the landscapes. Near occupation areas, like Little Petra, you can still see remnants of these worked locales. The number of grape presses found here is another indicator of their agricultural abilities when the waters flowed.

Lion Fountain

It is now said that “there are no jobs here” (sound familiar- could it be due to less water flowing here than pre-4^th Century CE earthquakes?) except for with the government or tourism related. Many wait years for a position in the public-sector while scrambling folks around cliffs and mountains to put tea and tahini on the table.

You may recall when I was here in the Spring I was befriended by a shopkeeper (Mahmoud) that started calling me “Uncle Phil” (which resonated quickly and deeply because of being known as same multi-genrationaly by family back home). He is my Amigo, and is now a Tour Guide that can be reached for tours of Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba, Dead Sea, mountain-tops, desert, or rock climbing adventures at: Mahmoud Hussien Abdu-asalam  (aka: “Belgeckie”; cell: 079.743.5135)

CONTEXT: Some Regional Timeframes… +/-

Neolithic Beida near Petra

8,000 BCE: Neolithic village at Beida; early signs of agriculture and coalition of seasonal populations.

1,200 – 539 BCE: Iron Age- Edomites centered in this area (see Bible: Old Testament, for earliest people mentioned in history)

539 – 332 BCE: Persian Empire



Nabataen Theatre (Roman style)



312 BCE – 112 CE: Nabataen Trade Empire

(332 – 63 BCE: Hellenistic/Greek occupation in Region had many influences on Petra area, but unable to unseat Nabataen control of the area.)

63 BCE – 330 CE: Roman Period in the Region (learned to avoid direct assaults from Greek experience, and used economic strategy to bring about their influence. Roman Period in area ended in conjunction with series of powerful earthquakes: Emperor lost mandate of Heaven?)

Byzantine Chapel

324 – 630 CE: Byzantine Period

640 – 1099: Islamic Conquests

1100 – 1260: European Crusaders

1250 – 1516: Mameluke Period

1516 – 1918: Ottoman  (Turkisk) Empire

(1812: Petra “re-discovered” by European travelers: let heritage tourism begin).

Arab Revolt

1916 – 1918: The Arab Revolt

1920 – 1946: Palestine and Trans-Jordan as British Protectorates.

1949: Renamed the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (King Abdullah)

1950: Jordan annexes the West Bank area of Arab Palestine (my sister Chris is born; bringing us to the modern era)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_Empire

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mamluk

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empire

Would you like to ride…???

Where is that camel?





In honor of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta that is going on back in Nuevo Mexico, this traveling Ranger from postal zip code 87508 (& Eldorado @ Santa Fe) is thinking about multi-modal travel (and how much longer we’ll have postal zip codes and a post office delivery system as things evolve).

I’ve seen from some Republicans for Environmental Protection chatter via e-mail this week that the Rail Runner (train between Belen [Bethlehem] south of ABQ to Santa Fe [aka Fanta Se-land]) is trying to survive in these tight economic times. The State has been cutting near-to-the-bone, and corporate sponsorships might be around the corner. Not a bad idea in some corners, but can you imagine: State Historic Preservation Officer (sponsored by the Uranium Producers of America), State Archaeologist (sponsored by the Recreational Off-Highway Vehicle Assn.), or the New Mexico’s Historic Architect (sponsored by the law firm of Tearem, Down & Newbuild). 

            In 2007 the Al-Khazneh (Treasury) was the site of a balloon launch, and there were hopes to have an Int’l Balloon Festival at Wadi Rum (another of Jordan’s spectacular World Heritage Sites) the following year. It was apparently postponed. Having seen a similar event back home for a couple of decades I must admit it would be visually spectacular to have Wadi Rum as a venue for mass ascensions. It would be logistically challenging, making it ever more special, and something tells me the descendants of people that built water delivery systems that even the Romans couldn’t later improve on are bound to give it a “good show.”.  Maybe it can get-off-the-ground in time for the Star-Trek theme amusement park being planned for Aqaba. That could be an interesting transportation continuum: foot-camel/donkey-balloon-starship.





Royal Tombs & Basin

            The number of feet and hooves/pads that have trod this area is remarkable. The Petra area (also experiencing financial challenges) is home to ca. 30,000 people at present (roughly, equivalent to the vicinity at its height some 2,000 years ago with suburbs). With modern conveyances assisting, one wonders about the impacts and carrying capacity of humans and their stock on water, sanitation, agriculture, etc. I’m sure I’ll again be thinking about these throughout my stay here this time (scheduled to be the month of Oct.- Inshallah)

http://world.n7w.com/worldtour/january-16-2007-petra-jordan/

http://www.uraniumproducersamerica.com/

http://www.rohva.org/

Putting our house in order…

camels chow down Qasr al-Bint

Several meetings the previous couple of days with many of Petra’s Management Team and new Commanding Officer of the Tourism Police (Lt. Col. Attal) was culminated 05 Oct. with a Director’s gathering of Park Ranger Supervisors at PAP HQ.  There were 14 Petra Park Rangers, 3 Management Team members (led by the Director, Dr. Emad Hijazeen), and the 3 former NPS Rangers from DOI’s Jordan Parks Project (JPP) Team (aka: “Two wise-men & me”).

camels at Siq (Treasury entrance)

The 2+ hour meeting was conducted 99.9% in Arabic and I understood less than .1%. I did pickup up on “UNESCO” being mentioned a couple of times, Wadi Mousa & Um Sayhoun several times, the fact that new uniforms were discussed, and that “Mr. Phil” was mentioned. In that context my notes reflect that they must have meant something like: “complexities of PAP went over ‘Mr. Phil’s’ head… he is as simple as a tool… we call him Ranger File.” So, I imagined that I’d arrived multi-culturally in that several native groups around the globe have probably independently nicknamed me: “he who shovels fecal matter.” Yet, they keep inviting me back. The Price Is Right…



Camels at Al-Khazneh (Treasury)*





 JPP team conveyed the importance of the place (Petra) and profession (Park Ranger) and that both are recognized worldwide for PROTECTING THE RESOURCES (sometimes at great risk to life & limb), and HELPING VISITORS ENJOY THE PARKS (Visitor Services). The PAP Ranger Corp has great passion for their mission and it shows, with many going beyond the job description and expectations of Arab hospitality in the performance of their duties. They are to be praised. Several potential service innovations brought up by the Rangers were discussed. The 1^st step is to commence this Saturday with new operational schedules and attention to correct PAP mistakes and conflicts-of-interest being made by employees and authorized permit holders; followed by a subsequent phase to modify the behavior of others.

Bill, vendors & donkeys next to Treasury*

In post-session with Dr. Emad we mentioned the upcoming International Ranger Federation’s World Congress (Tanzania) in 13-months. He indicated that he was interested in sending 2-3 of the Petra Park Rangers if funding could be identified. Jordan is building an Arab Regional Ranger Academy at Ajloun Nature Reserve. We’d like to see Rangers from the “Middle East” develop national Ranger Associations and join the worldwide efforts of Park Rangers.

Here is wishing ALL well…

http://www.pamsfoundation.org/world-rangers-congress
*- photos by Bruce McKeeman

Greetings from Wadi Musa, 3rd of Oct.

Living Room of 4-BR Apartment

Good to be back in Jordan, at the Siyaha Apartment up-the-hill from downtown Wadi Musa.

This morning the Jordan Parks Project Ranger Mentoring team of Bill  Wade, Bruce McKeeman & self had a meeting with Dr. Emad, the Director of Petra Archaeological Park, and Hani the Chief of Operations. Since our visit during “Arab Spring” there has been some progress evolving towards park management goals, but it has been slow: both figuratively and literally- park visitation for this time of year is down significantly from ca. 2,700 per day to 800. Great time to get over here for that too long delayed visit.

Park management subjects discussed included: Horse Care & Brooks Institute (new Director), Tourist Police (new Commander), Horse Mounted Police, and the back-road (exit by bus) project scheduled to be presented to UNESCO next month. Dr. E. met recently with the National Chief of the Tourist Police and conveyed his “action plan” in limiting problems, from chronic violators to unauthorized vehicles. Park Ranger & Tourist Police teams will be working in 5 geographic zones: TOGETHER; Horse Police will be conducting backcountry patrols; park staff nepotism issues should be stopped in 1-month; new uniforms for Park Rangers to be developed, ordered & issued. In addition the solar project Environmental Impact Assessment is moving forward (with MOU signed with Mitsubishi) and CRM Director has plans from her US study tour for dehydrating toilets that will be considered for remote PAP areas (High Place of Sacrifice, Monastery, Little Petra, etc.)



The Basin from High Place of Sacrifice

During lunch and shopping we saw some friends from our previous visit. Recently heard some fireworks... think the word is out... The National Park Service Rangers are back...