Sunday, July 31, 2011

Petra: trade & slavery (Part I)

Today marks the annual trade deadline for Major League Baseball here in the Homeland, and it got me to thinking about trade and the impacts it has had on world history. As a young undergraduate (studied history and anthropology) I was fortunate to spend two consecutive Spring terms in Mexico looking at the impacts of a paved road into Puerto Angel, Oaxaca from Acapulco (pre & post-construction). It was overwhelming the changes that paved road brought: “build and he [and she] will come”. Fishing boats converted to tour launches, family homes to B&B like Posadas, and many restaurants. 

Now think of the changes that Wadi Mousa, Jordan at Petra’s gateway has seen. With visitation rocketing from +/- 800 per day during the high season in 2005 to 4-5,000 three years later (after making the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World list): the town’s population has exploded, dwarfing Umm Sayhoun the nearby Bedouin community. The Wadi Mousa (Valley of Moses) area has grown from nomadic camps watering at the many springs in the area to a small village to a mid-size town with many 5-Star/Luxury hotels catering to domestic and international guests: trade. Visiting the bakery, produce markets, eateries, and even the barbershop often had me thinking “this is a good life…” Would I want to “trade” my western US lifestyle? Probably not… I’m very accustomed to my niche… and as Joe Walsh sang: “Life’s been good to me so far…”

In a couple of months I plan to be walking and working amongst our friends there. I know that my tracks will be added lightly to the cumulative caste of the millions that have treaded that turf (in the slang sense). I will once again behold the facades, columns and work projects that stand testimony to the centuries of effort, labor, migration and trade: our continuing story since time began.  (Next time: slavery…)




Friday, July 29, 2011

N.M.’s Heritage, Future Under Attack in House

ABQ Journal - Jul 27, 2011

This week, two landmark promises to the American people will again come under a barrage of withering attacks in the U.S. House of Representatives.

Nambe lake - Santa Fe NF

We’re talking about the Land and Water Conservation Fund and the Antiquities Act. These two historic pieces of legislation have made possible the protection of Carlsbad Caverns, Valles Caldera, El Morro and Chaco Canyon. Dozens of other sites that have been attracting tourists and their dollars to New Mexico for decades have also been protected.
The threat? Amendments tacked on to the Interior Department funding bill, that seek to gut the Land and Water Conservation Fund. They would also hobble attempts by current or future presidents to designate national monuments under the Antiquities Act.
Our own Rep. Steve Pearce is leading the attack on both these measures. He supported similar amendments in February and is expected to lead the charge this week.
Why is it important to fully fund the Land and Water Conservation Fund and to preserve the Antiquities Act?
First, the Land and Water Conservation Fund is not paid for by your tax dollars. It is funded by royalties generated by off-shore drilling activities. This money normally goes toward conservation efforts. It has paid for the development of 1,200 local parks and playgrounds in communities across our state but is often diverted to other purposes by Congress. This week, we will likely see an amendment to zero-out its funding altogether. Luckily, Sen. Jeff Bingaman has recently introduced a bill to mandate full funding for the Land and Water Conservation Fund, but that effort has only just begun.
The Land and Water Conservation Fund is a popular program that works at no cost to the American taxpayer. It has enriched the American experience by supporting national parks and wildlife refuges across America. And it includes a state component that pays for local parks and recreation projects. Since the fund’s inception 46 years ago, it has enjoyed wide bipartisan support through 10 administrations, Republican and Democrat. The fund has protected more than 7.6 million acres of land and paid for more than 40,000 local parks, pools, ball fields and other recreation projects nationwide.
The fund has also supported conservation at many of New Mexico’s marquee attractions: El Malpais National Monument, Chaco Culture National Historic Park, the Organ Mountains and the Gila National Forest, to name a few. New Mexico has received $41 million for open space and recreation projects in all 33 counties.
Second, with regard to the Antiquities Act, 10 presidents – six Republicans and four Democrats – have used the act to protect land in New Mexico. These places draw tourists from around the world, contributing greatly to New Mexico’s second-largest private industry – tourism.
Detractors claim that they need to curb this president’s power to designate monuments. But that thinking is historically short-sighted and cuts both ways, since it will also apply to future presidents. In a move to prevent government overreach, the Department of the Interior is now soliciting more community input into monument designation than ever.
Valles Caldera National Preserve
This week is critical for the concept of conservation as a core value and an economic opportunity.
As Congress debates the Interior Appropriations bill, we implore New Mexicans who have enjoyed our wild places, who have used community parks and pools, or who make their living in the outdoor or tourism industries to stand up and be heard. Conservation is a good bet for New Mexico’s economy. Efforts to cut the Land and Water Conservation Fund or weaken the Antiquities Act will not only cause great harm to our state’s bottom line, they will also break a promise to future generations. That promise? That our kids and grandkids will have a wealth of cultural heritage and wild places to enjoy and pass on to future generations.
Young, Whiton and Simpson are members of Republicans for Environmental Protection; Smith and Young are National Park Service retirees; and Simpson is a member of the Backcountry Hunters and Anglers.

Monday, July 25, 2011

The Case of the missing altar…Here is to you Peter Falk:


I have occasionally been asked to write about archeological & heritage cases I’ve been involved with. Over the years I’ve quipped: “I would, but I don’t want to get sued.” In reality, many are long and convoluted (they are complex investigations) and I probably don’t remember enough to make them an interesting read. But, here is one:

It was a typical “May Day” morning in Santa Fe. I was working the compliance desk at HPD (Historic Preservation Div.) when I received a call. It was Ben Reimann a Senior Special Agent with ICE that I’d worked Customs cases with before retiring from the Park Service. Ben told me there was a Grand Jury investigation out of New York that was tracking an alleged stolen church altar from Peru to Santa Fe. He said: “We’re searching Ron Messick’s gallery and home this morning. Do you want to come?” I’d be a subject matter specialist for cultural property. I immediately recognized the name, as Customs had been interested in Messick’s trips to Peru for years. In the decade he’d been in town he had become “a player,” owning a gallery and properties. I replied that I’d like to participate, and asked if I could bring the new NPS investigator in Santa Fe with me: Dave Sandbakken… aka “Big D.” We got supervisory approvals and headed out to what is called an “agency assist.”

search warrant photo
At the briefing we were shown a copy of a search warrant photo showing a large (ca. 5’ x 8’ +/-) church altar that we’d been looking for. An informant had seen the altar at Messick’s residence recently. We were to find and recover same. After the premises was secured and made safe, I entered the residence. I was struck by how much it looked like a fine museum, with wonderful objects aplenty. I also noticed the many search teams scurrying about without being able to locate the large altar. After looking in the various rooms ourselves Big D and I were out in the main entrance area when Big D asked: “So, whadaya think?” My reply: “I wonder what Lt. Columbo would do?... I think he’d be looking for inconsistencies around here.” I asked for the search warrant photo again and noticed the color of the entry area wall was the same color as behind the altar in the photo. I then noticed two metal loops protruding from ceiling vigas with nothing coming out of them. I inspected the large historic wooden credenza below that and noticed linear gouging on its top. Inspecting a cabinet nearby I found two wire cables that could’ve been to support an object the size of the missing altar. This information was quickly conveyed to the agents.

Subsequent interviews with gallery employees and others, within the hour, confirmed that the Peruvian altar had been at that very location at Messick’s home 1-week before.  We didn’t recover the altar that day, but Messick’s attorney turned-it-over to ICE a few days later. The defense strategy that they appeared to be working towards was that the piece had been in the US and bought-and-sold since the 1960’s; before we’d signed onto the UNESCO Treaty. However, a book published in Peru decades after that showed it “in situ” (in place) at the church altar. Messick never had his chance to defend his actions to the Grand Jury; I heard he died from brain cancer before that came about. The altar was in El Paso in ICE possession for awhile, and my understanding is that it was then repatriated to Peru. I hope to someday visit its home (and have Pete Falk to thank… among so many others).

Monday, July 4, 2011

Hope you have a Happy 4th (and fifth)…


I love this time of year, more renewals: a new champion victorious from a fortnight at the Championships (Wimbledon) and the initial stages of the Tour de France. As fire consumes (and replenishes) acres nearby I rest & recover thinking of my mom and sister (Laura) with their physical rehab efforts: every day a new challenge. This upcoming weekend I’ll don the USTA Officials uniform for a national juniors tournament as hard court season begins inching its way towards The US Open. The Director of Petra Archaeological Park, Dr. Emad, is on a 3-week Leadership tour of the USA, and their schedule brings them to Santa Fe (“The City Different”) this Wednesday for a brief look-see.

I’ve missed sharing memories & thoughts since my last post, and 2011 is the 24th anniversary of becoming a qualified Safety Officer in the Incident Command System (ICS), plus the death of my Dad that bleak autumn. As a semi-Former Action Guy, I’d recently been a Medical Unit Leader for a season, but wanted the increased responsibility (OK, one-year was enough and I wanted to escape the requirements of 24-7 at the Incident Command Post (ICP), and have the ability to recon what was happening on the line: it is sometimes hard to rid oneself of the adrenalin factor).  Headed into more involvement with the planning and Command Staff side of emergency equations I’d emerge as “Safety Dude” teaching at the Advanced Incident Management & Area Command courses during the 90’s. In 1987 I was green to this level. While on my 1st assignment as the Safety Officer with a CA-South Zone Type II Incident Management Team (IMT) my father was becoming increasingly ill from his battle with cancer, and in his last 2-months of life. I can still feel his pride today. While at incidents (Yellowstone, Katrina, etc.) I have similar feelings with thoughts and reflections of the experiences that have made-n-molded me, with gratitude for: Meme, Justin, my family, Burbank High & Humboldt State chums, Navy & National Park Service (NPS) colleagues, and the list keeps growing… including you. The 1st night my IMT arrived at the Klamath National Forest’s Elk Complex ICP it was late, dark, and foreboding. Our team was to start the transition to relieve a Great Basin Type I IMT that had been there for 21-days. The smoke from the inversion was so acute that a large tent with oxygen released was erected. I felt like I was in a scene from “Apocalypse Now.” Before turning in for the evening I grabbed my toothbrush and tube and wandered into the darkened woods for oral refreshment. At first taste this Safety Officer was reminded of Situational Awareness: the tube I grabbed in the dark was Ben Gay.

Next time: Thank you Peter Falk…