As I sit volunteering at the
NPS’ Old Santa Fe Trail information desk (not “brought to you by Taco Bell”
yet) on this Good Friday (14 Apr 17), I realize it might be time to reflect on
our recent time on Hawai’i. It was my fifth time to the islands, but my first
to the “Big Island.” My Burbank High School & Glendale College amigo, Kirk
Harris, has a condo in the Kailua-Kona area and has been dropping tantalizing
bits-of-bait encouraging a come-look-see. So, we finally did.
We booked non-stop flights
to/from Phoenix (PHX) & Kona (KOA): coming from Santa Fe that seemed like a
good way to go, as Southwest (which we took from/to Albuquerque) and American
are both in terminal 4. However, as a heads-up: in order to stay within the TSA
security area the hike between flight gates is about 30-minutes (but good
exercise). Meme had booked us an efficiency condo at the Kona Islander Inn via
Air BnB, and it was adequate for our humble needs (parking was a challenge though;
in fact finding a parking place nearby became one of our daily challenges and
highlights due to Spring Break).
On our first full day we
received a Facebook message from a former NPS colleague, Dwayne Collier, who
listed several places to see and activities to pursue. We feel fortunate to
have experienced some of his recommendations. Our initial day-trip was to
Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (NHP). Formerly called “City of
Refuge” it remains an important spiritual area for Native Hawaiians. A popular
snorkeling area is just north of the NHP: Two-step Beach. Water ingress/egress
was rocky and I made a small sacrificial
blood offering while exiting; the base of my right palm is almost healed (2+
weeks later).
Next day started with Arts
& Crafts fair at Hulihe’e Palace and visit to the Kaloko-Honokohau NHP,
between Kona and the airport. Park Ranger Steve Makuakane-Jarrell was murdered
there while on patrol in Dec. of 1999. Yes, even in paradise being a Park
Ranger can be a dangerous job. I remember when it happened, and hearing that he
went to investigate to report/complaint of “dog off leash,” and his wife became
a widow. The Park features opportunities to see green turtles in shallow water
at shorelines, plus Native fish traps & ponds. The freshwater areas are a
primary reason many early inhabitants settled in the area about 1,500 years
ago.
As you journey north up the
Kohala Coast you’ll find a series of beaches with new parking areas ($5 for day
use by non-residents). These include: Hapuna, Mauna Kea & Kauna’oa. The
last beach is a rare sandy expanse next to Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic
Site (NHS). The NHS is associated with a national coastal trail & Native
Hawaiian unification history by King Kamehameha I. A trip up “The Thumb” to Kapa’au is
worthwhile.
On our southern jaunt we were
tasked by Dan Lenihan (retired Chief, NPS Submerged Cultural Resources Unit) to
find/visit the freshwater hole at Ka Lae/South Point. Enroute we stopped for a
short hike at the Kahuku Unit of Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park: worth the
time & effort.
Since it was a busy holiday
weekend on the island, the road out to South Point was heavy with traffic, but
a good excursion to the southern most point in the 50 states (south of 20
degrees latitude, or a little north of Manzanillo or Veracruz in Mexico). A good steady wind can be expected: you'll see the wind turbine farm as you're approaching lands end. Other
popular outings in this part of the island include green and black sand beaches.
Of course, the premier part
of our trip was to finally visit Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. I thought the
stars were aligned for me to be Chief Ranger there years ago (mid-90's), but it was but
another case of my over estimating my skills, knowledge & abilities. All
worked out, and we finally made it in 2017. With words I can’t do justice
to the energy and power of this part of our world. Standing at the Jaggar
Museum and looking into the Halema’uma’u Crater (a mile away) is truly awe
inspiring: planet earth at work. To borrow a line from “Apocalypse Now”: “Sell
the car, sell the house, sell the kids” and go = a must see (at least for Meme
& me). So, much to see and do (petroglyphs too). Yep, we hope to be back
and probably stay on that side (windward) of the island. 
I think our favorite part of
the Big Island was the northeast Hamakua Coast & Heritage Corridor
(along/off Hwy. 19). Several plantation towns and features: Hawaii Tropical
Botanical Gardens, waterfalls, Laupahoehoe Beach Park, Papaikou area, etc. While driving around paradise, whether you’re
listening to Jimmy Buffet sing “Back to
the island,” or Israel Kamakawiwo’ole sing anything: relax & enjoy…
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