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Our trip to the Feynan Eco-lodge at Dana Biosphere Reserve was a worthwhile adventure. The excursion started with the rental car company owner (Osama) telling us that we shouldn’t take the car over the mountain to Wadi Araba because “the road is broken.” In actuality, the road is rough in spots for about a half-hour of the less than 2-hour drive from Wadi Mousa, but in better condition than some roads we’ve all been on out there (even in Nuevo Mexico: gee, the road atop La Cieneguilla petroglyphs pops into mind).
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The Eco-lodge features solar powered electricity (and candlelight nights), totally vegetarian menus, spring water, a sunset hike, roof-top star gazing uncluttered by lights, half & full day tours to various destinations, breath-taking desert landscapes (that reminded me of Death Valley in spots), and locally made handicrafts. I know you’re all wondering who’ll win the lottery for the goat-skin wallet I picked up (I hear you: “Me, me… make it me”).
We got to meet some interesting really interesting people too: the Legal Attaché (aka: LEGAT) for Jordan, Lebanon & Syria (talk about a challenge) from the embassy and his charming spouse; Suliman our young tour guide (with a degree in accounting from Karak, he prefers living at home with his parents 6 brothers/4 sisters and working in eco-tourism). The Eco-lodge at Feynan is a glimpse of the past and the future for many destinations. Well worth the effort to get there and experience. During the sunset hike I found an area with an unauthorized excavation (looter’s hole) that had a still in place bowl protruding from its wall, which I of course photo-documented in place and reported. Yes, SiteWatch archaeology abroad.
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BTW, we opted for the half-day walk to the copper mines that were utilized from late Neolithic/early-Bronze Age, the Iron Age, and through Roman & Byzantine periods. Working the mines was not pleasant duty. In fact, it was usually reserved for a prisoners & slave’s last stop before their entrance to the other side with the spirit world. One rock-lined shaft dropped down about 40’ and then went laterally close to 150’ (of course without ventilation). I don’t imagine it was a much sought after billet for Roman soldiers or guards either. The return to the Lodge and a cool lemonade was a nice modern respite.
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