Thursday, October 20, 2011

A light in the desert… what is burning in Wadi Musa?

We were scheduled to go to Haroun’s (Aaron’s) Tomb today, but the Inshallah-factor stepped-in. Last night, being Wednesday, was the special program Petra at Night that features Khazneh (Treasury) by candlelight, flute music, singing & poetry. Petra had some other nocturnal experiences last night too. These were in addition to the types that happen when western ladies meet Bedouin (aka. “Bad-ouin) eyes at night: sometimes it leads to marriage or another lesson in life’s twists & turns.



This morning when Rangers reported for duty the question asked was: “What happened to the Ranger Kiosk?” The wooden kiosk was burned down, and removed, last night. In addition, a real “cover up” ensued as the location was cleansed of metal, glass, etc. and fresh earth was spread on top of the site. Now, it is true that the kiosk was unappealing to the eye, and not a favorite of UNESCO, this team of Rangers, or many others. However, someone apparently torched it and arson will get you 3-years in jail here we’ve been told.  The last time I saw the Ranger Kiosk I took a photo because two Tourism Police Officers (TPO) were standing outside it (1st time I’d seen that). Today, no TPO and no Ranger Kiosk.
Speculations have been flying about regarding who might be responsible (many motives & suspects): angry displaced unauthorized vendors, UNESCO, Rangers/former Rangers, donkey-boys, Park Management, etc. The kiosk was to be a check-point for Rangers to stop donkey operators from proceeding further up towards the Khazneh, but they didn’t pay any attention to the Rangers (or TPO) anyway: they just waved and said go ahead and take my name. It is hard to enforce Park rules when you have no authority or regulations. As for this retired Regional Special Agent, I think it was Professor Plum in the Kiosk with a Candlestick.
As for the questions we heard the most often before “Who done did it?” were:
·        Where are you from?
·        Where is Fred?

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