no fooling (April)

Royal Tombs from High Place of Sacrifice

Another GREAT week, working with the Park Rangers and Tourist Police in-the-field at Petra. Had some “WOW!” and OMG moments (like the “older” lady from that country across-the-Channel east of Dover that wore a body suit that didn’t go well with her experience and “trails traveled.”) Visitation to the Petra Archaeological Park & Market Place is running at 2-3 thousand per day (which is down for this time of year). It is made up primarily of tour and school groups, but some venture via solo sojourn.  

Donkeys descend from High Place of Sacrifice

A couple of highlights for the week were: visited by some folks based out of DC (they were “here-to-help”); drinking tea with new friends (Bedouin tea has about 3-4 heaping spoonfuls of sugar per cup); meetings with Park Director & Tourist Police Commander (Major); dodging modern equivalent of racing chariots (carriages) in the narrows of al-Siq now that “Cowboy Fred” (a friend to many & nemesis to some) has gone home to northern Arkansas; working on "No Donkeys in unauthorized areas compliance week" (you'll see how that worked out); asked to help put  together a by-invitation 1-day workshop for managers entitled: “Best Practices in Protected Areas Management” (Amman 26 April); inquiry to prolong work here; attend a wedding reception (which, friends & neighbors, I’ll now talk about).

plate of mensaf

1 April was a special-day for Dr. Marat, as it was his wedding day. His brother, Hamza, and father had invited us weeks ago to attend the reception. We were truly honored. Many families here build large reception halls (funded via a homeowner’s association type assessment). The reception was held at the family hall, and started about 1PM. We were greeted by he groom and close relatives at the entrance and escorted in. The reception was male only, in keeping with custom. Before long the hall was filled with round-tables of men standing eating mensaf (meat on rice-bed with thin-yogurt over it). I hear that 300 kilos (660 lbs. of goat was served). Followed by tea (sweet of course) and making more new friends on-the-roof overlooking Wadi Musa. A good time was had by all… no dinner needed last night… and we’ve been invited to another wedding reception in 2-weeks.

We’re now off to the Dana Nature Reserve (today) and Wadi Rum (of Lawrence of Arabia movie scenes fame) tomorrow.  Have a great time…

From an e-mail to family:

"Meme (& Justin):

Very special day here of course as it is Holy-day (and 1^st day of the weekend).

Went to a wedding reception today (all men) and arranged with Ranger XXXXXX (has 2 wives and  children) for his daughter (Habsa, pictured here) to marry Justin. He’ll need to get work to afford some donkeys. She normally has a wonderful smile, but I’m afraid that the shock-of-it-all was overwhelming. I’ll send you some photos of the reception in a bit… Loving you… Phil"